Tech Tips

| Awning | Electric Steps | Bearings | Envoy manual | Furnace | LP Gas |

| Running gear | Commander manual | furnace trouble shooting |

| 6-way connector diagram | Tires | Sentinel Manual | Refrigeration & Air Conditioning |

| 7-way connector diagram | Winterizing | Voyager manual |

Check your hardware for operation at the beginning of each season, lubricating buttons, handles, and threaded knobs. Be careful not to get petroleum based lubricants on your awning fabric. Remember to lower one end of your awning if you are going to leave it extended during rain storms and roll up when leaving unattended or during periods of high winds. Most awning damage we see is related to water pooling on the fabric or awnings torn loose in high winds. Generally speaking neither of these conditions are covered by manufacturers warranty.

Vinyl awning fabrics are mildew resistant, mildew will however, form on the tree sap, dirt, and dust that accumulate on an awning in normal use. Periodic cleaning can prevent this.

Clean with a commercial awning cleaner or with a solution of 1/4 cup liquid dish detergent, 1/4 cup household bleach mixed with 5 gallons of water. Extend your awning and swab the fabric using a soft brush, mop, or sponge. This should be applied to the top and bottom. To do the bottom, do the top first then roll up the awning for a few minutes. Extend the awning and rinse well with fresh water. Repeat if necessary. Let dry before rolling up for storage.

When getting your camper out for the season don't forget to check the running gear ( axles, springs, spring hangers, and spring shackles ). The best time to do this is when you have your bearings lubricated. High mileage units in particular should have the spring shackles checked annually. Spring shackles are the narrow metal strips that attach your springs to the hanger or equalizer and of course to the trailer. Spring shackles allow the necessary movement from the springs flexing and help to keep all wheels working together. Due to normal movement and the lack of lubrication the shackles will wear their mounting bolt holes egg shaped which weakens them.

Dexter Axle recommends wheel bearing lubrication every 12 months or 12000 miles. For boat trailers we recommend at least annually, more often if your trailer is in the water frequently and you don't use the Bearing Buddy^TM style grease cap. Even if you use Bearing Buddy^TM style grease caps you should do your bearings annually. Don't forget to replace the grease seals when you do the bearings. Also, for trailers with brakes, while the drum is off, check the brake shoes and magnets for grease contamination, as well as the inside of drum surface. Clean if necessary with a cleaner designed for use on brake shoes. Brake shoes and magnets contaminated with grease indicate over greasing or bad grease seals. Hubs filled to capacity with grease will leak even with new seals.

Before heading out on your camping trip don't forget to check the air pressure in your tires. Under inflation combined with high speeds causes excessive heat in tires and can cause tire failure. The recommended pressure is usually printed on the sidewall of the tire. It is also a good idea to look at your tires occasionally to check the wear pattern. Over inflated tires will wear in the center, while under inflated tires will show more wear at the edges. If you see a scallop like pattern around the edges (also called cupping) you may have a loose wheel bearing or possibly an alignment problem. Also check for sidewall cracking and or bulges. Some sidewall cracks are normal in trailer tires, mostly from exposure to sunlight. Sidewall cracks should be checked periodically too for depth and signs of cord showing. Cord showing or numerous deep cracks indicate that it is time for new tires.

One of the most common complaints related to RV refrigerators and air conditioners takes the form of "my refrigerator or air conditioner isn't working very well". This complaint is frequently related to electrical supply problems and in the case of the refrigerator is easily checked by switching to gas (assuming that you have kept it in operating condition ).

If you are running an air conditioner, you should be using a voltage monitor of some type! Your air conditioner requires 120 volts +/- 10% to operate correctly. With low voltage either the compressor will not run or if it does you risk damaging the compressor motor.

Protecting your appliances from low voltage is fairly easy, you need a voltage monitor or voltmeter to check voltage at an outlet in your unit, with and without the AC running. One of the other easy protections is to use NO extension cords, if you must use an extension cord be sure that it is properly sized. If you are running an air conditioner and you must use an extension cord you should be using the 10 gauge RV extension. If your site voltage is exceptionally good you may be able to use a 12 gauge cord for 25 feet or less. Also, many campgrounds now have 30 amp outlets, a 30 amp outlet DOES NOT guarantee 30 amps, it only means that you have a 30 amp RATED outlet to plug into.

Don't assume that you have good voltage at your campsite, test, use the proper size extension cord and be aware of the symptoms of low voltage.

Refrigerator not cooling as well as usual, TV picture slightly smaller than normal, air conditioner won't cool or cycles frequently. If you experience any of these switch your refrigerator to gas and turn off the air conditioner, remove any extension cords if possible.

Don't forget to check your refrigerator vents and vent door for obstructions. You should be able to look up from the bottom vent to the roof vent cap with nothing but refrigerator coils to restrict the view. The vent door should not have any screens or furnace filters over it, they are not supposed to be there and will restrict air flow, which in turn restricts cooling.

Clean your air conditioner filter and check the condenser fins on the roof occasionally. Wash the filter (foam) in mild detergent and rinse well. Non foam filters should be vacuumed or replaced. Any other maintenance should be done by a qualified technician.

Annually, check the operation, have the burner and combustion chamber cleaned if needed.

Some of the older models with cast iron burners need to be cleaned every couple years. One of the telltale signs that cleaning is necessary is a soot streak on the outside wall above the furnace vent.

On electronic ignition models make sure that the electrode is in good condition and properly gapped. If you find you are having ignition problems with direct ignition furnaces don't just change the ignition control board with out testing the rest of the furnace. There are several other things that can cause a malfunction that appears to be a bad control board. If it is necessary to replace the control board consider one of the new boards from Dinosaur Electronics which have several improvements over the original equipment boards. See our furnace trouble shooting page.

And last but not least make sure that your gas system pressure is checked and the regulator adjusted if necessary.

You full timers should have the furnace removed and have the fans cleaned and have the dust blown off the rest of the furnace components. If you haven't already done so make a note of the furnace brand name, model number, and the serial number. Put these somewhere for quick reference. Its also a good idea to do this for the rest of your appliances.

Its winterizing time for some of us. The easiest way to winterize your water system is to take your camper south to warmer weather for the winter.

Unfortunately for most of us that isn't always practical. If you are going to do it yourself there are a few things you can do to ensure an easy and thorough job.

Install a water heater bypass kit, a pump converter kit, and get a blowout plug.

These items apply to demand type water systems, if you have a pressure water system you can eliminate the pump converter kit.

The water heater bypass kit as the name implies allows you to winterize without filling the water heater with antifreeze.

The pump converter kit allows you to pump antifreeze through the system without dumping a lot of antifreeze into your fresh water tank.

The blowout plug screws into your city water hookup and gives an easy way to blow the water out of the lines and water heater.

After blowing out the lines, don't forget to remove the water heater drain plug and let the water drain until air blows out the drain, pump the antifreeze through the system. Don't forget to dump some in the traps. Alternatively take it to your dealer for winterizing.

Finally before parking for the winter, be sure your waste tanks are empty and closed, don't seal the water heater with plastic it can trap moisture and do more harm than good, check the condition of your roof vents. A normal roof vent is shiny, if the plastic is dull looking and or pitted consider replacing them before storing for the winter particularly if you are storing outdoors.

Camper LP gas systems should be checked yearly (at the very least) for leaks and the correct operating pressure. Checking the pressure requires a manometer which most owners don't keep in their tool boxes and so should be done by a dealer or service center. LP gas systems are designed to operate at 11" WC (water column) or about 6 1/4 oz. per sq. in., at this low pressure it doesn't take much of a change up or down to affect how your appliances operate.

Manometers are also used in leak checking. A popular method of leak checking is to use a manometer to monitor for a pressure loss.

The other choice is to turn the gas on and check all fittings with a leak testing solution or soapy water. Do not use anything containing ammonia. One drawback to this method is that you can not check for gas leaking through an appliance valve.

Also if you are travel a lot you may want to check the manufacture date of your LP cylinders. If they go out of date while you are traveling you may not be able to have them filled. The date is stamped on to the collar of ALL LP cylinders in the form MM - YY. When a cylinder reaches its 12th birthday it must be inspected or recertified. If you find more than one date the most current should have a letter after it, most often an E, this date is good for 5 years.

Effective October 1, 1998, all cylinders with capacities from 4 #'s to 40 #'s must have an OPD (Overfill Protection Device) valve installed or it can not be refilled.

Electric steps, an increasingly poplar option, are relatively trouble free if given a little routine maintenance.

The most commonly negelected maintenance item is lubrication, Kwikee one of the largest manufacturers of electric steps recommends lubricating the step every 30 days. The recommended lubricant is their own Kwik Lube, it sprays on with the consistency of penetrating oil and changes to a protective grease after a few minutes. Any spray lube with similar characterists will work, it should be applied to all pivot points including the motor linkage to the step. Also occasionally check any exposed wiring for corrosion and weak connections.

Remember when working around the step to keep yourself clear of the step and the mechanism in case of accidental activation.